So very pretty, so very ugly

The Unesco world heritage site, Hoi An, is extremely lovely. The old port has dozens of preserved Japanese merchant houses and Chinese temples, not to mention a wonderful covered bridge.

Hoi An

Japanese Covered Bridge

But sadly, thanks to the prevalence of people like me descending on this small town, it is also a tourist trap. You cannot walk more than five seconds without someone trying, very persistently, to sell you a boat ride, or a moto ride, or a tailored suit, or a t-shirt, or any other number of worthless tchotchkes.

Assembly Hall

Thu Bon River

It somewhat destroys the easy-going riverside atmosphere when every shop-keeper is yelling "hallo!" to get your attention, or even chasing you down the street, literally in my case, trying to haggle over something you really didn't want in the first place.

Tourist boats waiting

Even the historical sights, like 19th century Vietnamese merchant house Tan Ky, were all about the money. After paying an entrance fee, most of the time on the mandatory guided tour was spent in front of the merch. I found it pretty disconcerting to be on the receiving end of such a hard sell at an alleged museum.

Market in Hoi An

Getting away from the town center is the only antidote, and I spent a very pleasant hour pedalling around the back streets of the An Hoi peninsula with nary a salesperson in sight.

An Hoi Peninsula

Fisherman taking a bath

The food in Hoi An was very good, especially the banh bao (steamed shrimp dumplings) at the Morning Glory Street Food restaurant. But sadly, most of the good restaurants are right in the middle of the hawker zone. I'd advise a pair of earplugs and lots of patience if you are considering a visit.

Nguyen Thai Hoc street