Indochina revisited

I got to visit three of the more famous cities of French Indochine, the former colonial institution responsible for (arguably) the decades of war and (definitely) the magnificent baguettes and coffee in this region. Saigon - now officially Ho Chi Minh City, though no-one seems to call it that - in Vietnam, Phnom Penh in Cambodia and Vientiane in Laos all have similarities, but it was their differences that struck me more.

Tran Nguyen statue, Saigon

Street food, Saigon

Saigon (or HCMC) was incredibly busy, with motorbikes clogging every single road. The sidewalks were less cluttered than the capital, Hanoi, but the air was much more polluted.  For the first time since I was in China, I could taste the various chemicals as I walked around.

Opera House, Saigon

People's Committee Building, Saigon

Some of the colonial architecture was stunning, especially the cathedral and the opera house, but Saigon is definitely on the modernity path. It felt like the newest, and most western, of the cities I visited but I must confess it was my least favorite place in Vietnam precisely for those reasons.

Silver Pagoda, Phnom Penh

National Museum, Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh was in mourning when I arrived. The former King died in October and despite his mixed record (helped gain Cambodian independence but later supported the Khmer Rouge), most Cambodians loved him.  The Royal Palace was closed out of respect, but I did see the Silver Pagoda next door and the National Museum built in Angkor tradition.

Market, Phnom Penh

Russian Market food stalls, Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh was much less busy than Saigon, and much less polluted, but there was a palpable air of poverty. The shocking sight of toddlers and amputees begging in the street tended to offset any delights in the city's cuisine and architecture.

Pha That Luang, Vientiane

Wat Si Saket, Vientiane

Vientiane was the quietest capital city I've ever seen. The sights can all be seen in less than half a day, including the famous golden Pha That Luang stupa, beautiful Wat Si Saket temple and bizarre Patuxai (an Arc de Triomphe rip-off that is also known as the "vertical runway" because it was built using concrete that the US donated for a new airport).

Patuxai, Vientiane

Bustling streets of Vientiane

The town centre feels more like a village, or perhaps a small town, and that is part of Vientiane's charm. It's a sleepy collection of guesthouses, restaurants and cafes, with an occasional book store, perfect for chilling out and doing almost nothing for a few days.