Around the World in 80 Posts: Chiang Mai Goodness

How can I say no to that face?

Bollocks to saving the best for last. The most amazing part of my three day/four night sojourn in Chiang Mai, Thailand - was my final day, which I spent at a sanctuary for abused, retired and rescued domestic elephants. There's no riding or mahout-training at the Elephant Nature Park, tourists just get to spent the day taking care of these pachyderms. How? Like this:

Many of the elephants have suffered terrible injuries during their "careers" in logging or tourism. There are female elephants with broken hips from forced mating, or broken ankles from runaway logs, and many are blind from abuse.

One female elephant, who trod on a landmine, brought an unexpected gift to the animal sanctuary. In October, she gave birth to a male calf, who could not be more adorable.

Navann, just months old

And if you're ever feeling slightly sad, this video of little Navann bumping around should help cheer you up.

Baby Elephant from Tina Cone on Vimeo.

Most of the elephants seemed very happy at the sanctuary, though it can't be easy spending your days surrounded by farangs (foreigners). While I recorded several happy squeaks from elephants getting fed, I also recorded one girl whose message to back off was pretty clear, though she calmed down once her handler/elephant whisperer came over.

Elephant Noises from Tina Cone on Vimeo.

That was the one and only briefly scary moment in the sanctuary, the rest of my visit to Elephant Nature Park was really very lovely. Just like its residents.

Chiang Mai has other delights, though they pale in comparison to the elephants. I'm very glad that I did everything else first, so I wasn't ever disappointed. One day, I went mountain-biking on Doi Pui mountain just outside of the city. I took the beginner course, but it was still a steep ride from 5400 ft, through coffee plantations, rutted forest roads and washed out dirt tracks, to a lake that rests at just 1200 ft. It took three hours since I was travelling only slightly faster than your average Loris, but the scenery and the fresh air made all the pain almost worth it. Almost.

Chiang Mai itself, which used to be the capital of its own kingdom in northern Thailand, is replete with temples and massage parlors and markets. It was a pleasure wandering the quiet lanes and wats for a couple of hours when I first got to town, even though after the languor of Luang Prabang, Chiang Mai felt positively buzzing to me.