Torres del Paine

The Google tells me that "Paine" is a Tehuelche Indian word meaning "blue", and it's pronounced pie-nee. Until today, I've been pronouncing it like the English word "pain" because quite frankly, it's just as appropriate.

Torres del Paine National Park in Chile is consistently rated one of the best trekking spots on the planet, and most hikers spend four days doing the W or seven days doing the circuit (see here). But thanks to some nimrod who allegedly set a fire, burning down large areas of the park, no-one could do either trek. Until this weekend.

Part of the Torres del Paine National Park

So which trek did I do? Neither of course! As previously mentioned, me + camping = misery. But I couldn't pass up the opportunity to at least TRY to see the park's main attraction, the Torres del Paine.

Crossing streams and rivers

It took me three and a half hours to get there. I cursed my way up a massive hill, wandered through a forest, imbibed water straight out a fresh mountain stream, clambered over boulders, braved wind and even snow to get to this:

Torres del Paine

It was breathtakingly beautiful and the photo really doesn't do it justice. I spent about 20 minutes up there soaking in the view before scrambling back through the boulders, the forest, the streams and the hill. Three hours later, I was on a nice warm bus headed back to Puerto Natales.

You can still see the Torres from the bus stop!

It took me seven hours to make it back and forth to the Mirador las Torres. My right knee is crying mutiny (mutiknee?) and my hips hate me. But all things considered, the pain of the Torres del Paine was worth it.

• Sidebar: if anyone is thinking about coming to Puerto Natales, I cannot recommend the hostel at Erratic Rock enough; it is amazingly comfortable, the staff are incredible, there's a pub right next door with daily briefings on the park and plentiful beer/food/movies at night. It's been my favorite place on this trip by far.