Cuzco, Cusco, Qosq'o

Plaza de Armas

This city, founded by the first Inca, Manco Capac, was the capital of the Incan empire until the Spaniards came along just under five hundred years ago. It stretches out across the Huatanay valley, and contains one of the most holy sites of the Incas, Qorikancha or temple of the sun. Of course, the Spaniards built their OWN religious edifice right on top of it, so now the only way you can see what remains of the old temple is by visiting the Santo Domingo monastery. The conquistadors stripped the building of gold, but you can still see the impressive Incan stonework, for example, in the grey circular wall pictured below.

Qorikancha with Santo Domingo sitting on top

While the colonial influence is tangible, much of this city hadn't changed for thousands of years. Until Hiram Bingham came across Machu Picchu and told the world. Now, it's tourist central, with plenty of Incan references everywhere (not to mention touts offering you a massage or a painting or a tour every three steps).

fountain in the Plaza de Armas

But despite the hordes of fellow tourists, this city is pretty magical. Just an hour after my arrival, I happened to glance up a nearby street to see a Quechan woman leading a llama up the steps. That's something you don't see every day, even in New York.

just a lady and her llama

I also happened to arrive here during Easter week, Semana Santa. And while I missed the big parade on the Monday before Easter, which features the Lord of Earthquakes, I did catch the Good Friday procession as it left La Merced church. Here's a little footage from that:


Good Friday Procession from Tina Cone on Vimeo.

Even though the city is in a valley, it's still REALLY high in the mountains - 11,000 plus feet. So the altitude is palpable. Fortunately I've been keeping myself hydrated with a combination of the local Cusquena brew and coca tea. Just what the doctor recommends, right?

breakfast, lunch and dinner of champions